Nitecore MH12 Pro Review

I wanted to do a written review on the Nitecore MH12 Pro flashlight that Nitecore sent to me to check out. They have been very patient as my personal life has taken precedence over the past several months over flashlight reviews. It’s running Nitecore’s first Proprietary LED the NiteLab UHi 40 and it’s round instead of the more traditional square LED. It’s also running Nitecore’s new higher capacity (5300mAh) 21700 NL2153HP battery. 

 

Pick it up at the Nitecore Store at https://www.nitecorestore.com/MH12-Pro-Flashlight-p/fl-nite-mh12pro.htm

 

What’s inside

The box is typical of Nitecore’s retail experience with quite a bit of info and full color on the outside. Inside you get the light, a clip, lanyard, extra oring, next-generation holster, the NL2153HP battery, USB-A to USB-C charging cable, manual, and warranty card. 

 

Construction & Design

Typical of other recent Nitecore flashlights in this price range the MH12 Pro is well built. The large rear mechanical tail switch stands proud at the tail but the two wings on the side allow it to tail stand. The milling on the tail is shallow and doesn’t really fit aesthetically to the body tube in my opinion. Threads are square cut and anodized with a proper amount of lubrication and oring in the usual places. 

The body tube had deep triangle-shaped rings milled in and then some cuts going length-wise in a slow spiral for contrast grip. I think it looks great and is very functional without being too hard on the hand to hold. Works pretty well with gloves too. The pocket clip is dual direction, nondeep carry, and fits on either end of the body tube. 

The head is glued in place and has your main mode button, USB-C recharging, and emitter. As talked about more in detail below, the light does have power level indicators and mode LED lights to the left and right of the button that are on when the light is on. These work well and are easy to see at a glance. The bezel is lightly crenulated and stands slightly proud of the glass lens. Underneath is a smooth reflector with the new round LED in the center. 

 

User Interface

The UI is pretty easy to pick up the first time you power on the light. The main on and off is a large mechanical button in the rear, and then to change modes you have a large textured electronic button in the head. To the left of the button you have 4 small blue LEDs to indicate what output power level you are on, and on the right you have 4 green LEDs showing the battery level. These remain on when the light is on. The light also has a proximity sensor that is in use on high and turbo modes. It’s reactive and will dim when it senses too much reflection and drop the light down in mode to where it won’t damage any fabrics or burn skin, and the nice thing here is that it steps back up to the mode you were in once the obstruction was removed. This is the way it should operate. You can also override the proxy sensor if it comes on in the use of the light by just clicking that mode button once, and the sensor will be disabled then until the light is powered off and on again.

 

LED

The MH12 Pro uses Nitecore’s NiteLab UHi 40 LED, this is a new LED made by Nitecore’s parent company and is round instead of the normal square LED we see typically. I tested this on my Opple light meter. I tested the tint at about 5440k and CRI at 57.5 CRI. The tint here is a bit yellow-green, more noticeable on lower powers. To my eye not a huge flaw but it’s definitely noticeable more in the spill. No apparent PWM in lower modes or turbo. The beam shape isn’t noticeably different from other Square LED lights. I think the optic that’s chosen has a greater effect than the shape of the LED. Night shots show it’s round shape, especially in the spill with a focused center. This throws well for not being a thrower an easy 200 yards to the building in the distance. A nice choice for a lot of urban or rural uses without being so narrow like a lot of throwers are. 

 

Heat & Runtime Graphs

Heat and runtime are pretty simple here, for my test of Turbo I disabled the proximity sensor (Check the UI section for how this is done), and got about 2400 lumens at peak output but this dropped pretty quickly to around 1250 lumens at the 30-second mark, and after 1 minute it was around 700 lumens where it ran slowly declining and hit its steady output of around 550 lumens for 3+ hours. Total runtime was 3:48:00. Max heat during this time was around 54C at the 50-second mark. 

 

Recharging

The light has a larger port cover opposite the main operation button on the back of the light. It’s a bit unique instead of being solid silicone rubber like most other flashlights it’s got a harder plastic exterior and soft silicone interior. This should be good for durability. Recharging itself is done via USB-C and I had no issues with USB-C PD chargers indicating they have the correct pulldown resistors here. Charging took 4:26: in total, with charging hitting a peak of 2A for the first 110 minutes roughly. No complaints here with the charging curve or terminal voltage of the cell at 4.16v. The battery itself is protected and rated at 5300mAh, but in my testing, it was even larger at 5448mAh. The light takes a nonproprietary button top protected 21700-sized battery.

 

Conclusion

The beam pattern here is good i’m not sure it’s substantially better than square LEDs with a good optic from a similar style of lights. Personally, the somewhat green output here for me is a turn-off, and I would rather take some minor beam artifacts for a more pleasant, neutral or even cool white tint. So I’m not sure this new LED is meeting the marketing hype in this application. That said I don’t think a majority of Nitecore’s fan base will care that much round vs square since Nitecore generally has decent optics but some may care about the tint here. 

The rest of the light has quite a bit to like about it. The size here is nice for a 21700 light in my opinion, controls and user interface are good and it has a nice amount of grip in the hand. I like the LEDs around the button that show mode and power level all the time and the markings are minimal on the light. Overall a solid flashlight, but hopefully as Nitecore continues to use this LED, the binning and tint will improve. 

Wurkkos TS12 Review (Budget Pocket Thrower!)

Today I am taking a look at the Wurkkos TS12, a small pocket thrower with onboard USB-C charging. It’s using a new YLX N3535B round LED and is powered by a 14500 battery all for a bargain price. Thanks to Wurkkos for sending this to me to review any discounts or coupons I have will be in the description.

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Packaging & Accessories

Wurkkos packaging on recent models has been a lot nicer and this is no exception, it’s a full color slip with technical specs on the back over a white box with magnetic closures, a sticker on the end of the box let’s you know what the specs of your model are. The light ships with a few accessories, a generic lanyard, 2 spare orings for the tail cap, and USB-A to USB-C charging cable. You can get it with a 900mAh 14500 for an additional $2 which is worth doing in my opinion.

 

Construction & Design

The TS12 is made from 6061 aluminum and anodized in black. The light is a mini thrower and has a form factor similar to the Lumintop GTmini, but with a bit more of a tactical feel. The tailcap is flat and magnetic so it tailstands without a problem. In the hand the deeper groves provide decent grip for a light with no knurling on it. There is only a spring in the tail cap, threads are standard ACME cut and the head and body tube are all one piece. 

The button has a silicone cover, with an LED in it’s center that’s used for a charge status indicator. The USB charging port on the rear is small, not all your USB-C cables will fit due to width restrictions. The front bezel is aluminum I believe and anodized in a gunmetal finish and glued in place. The front lens is thick glass, and below it is a deep smooth reflector with a small round LED in the center. 

 

UI

The light has two UI modes, a stepped that it ships in by default and a ramping option that you can switch to. Stepped mode is a very traditional flashlight interface, simple click to turn on, long press to go up through the 3 main modes, double press to go to turbo, and triple press to go to the blinking modes. Once in the blinking modes, you can double press to move between strobe, SOS, and Beacon modes. The light also has moon mode which you can access from off by long pressing. 

 

To switch to ramping mode when on click 4 times to switch between mode groups, the light will flashlight to confirm. 

 

Ramping mode works like you think with double click to turbo, and triple click to strobe although when ramping if you hit peak output the light will reset down to low instead of stopping. Not idea IMHO.

 

Retention

For retention, there is a small lanyard hole in the tailcap for the included generic lanyard. The light looks like it’s designed for a clip to attach at the rear however one is not included. I like it’s slightly longer length than the GTNano I have since the body tube is a little longer. 

 

Size & Weight

I measured the length at 90.9mm, body diameter at 20mm, and head diameter at 33mm. Weight with the battery came in at 2.61oz. The light is IPX8 water rated and drop rated for 1M. 

 

LED & Beam

The Wurkkos TS12 is using a new LED the YLX N3535B  which is round instead of square. There isn’t much information available for this LED that I can find, but from testing, I can tell you my example is 5536k and 57Ra on my Opple Meter. Its tint is more yellow in DUV than we see from most other LED’s. To my eye, it looks yellow-green but that doesn’t show up on the meter much. In a thrower, we typically don’t care as much about high CRI so this isn’t as big of deal. It’s something I would notice though if using it on something reflective like snow. The beam has a small hot center, and a few diffused rings in it. The spill has a small area around the hot spot where it’s reasonably intense and then a huge drop-off for everything past that. I don’t notice much of a difference here with the LED being round vs. square and having optics. There is fast PWM in the light.

 

Outputs

My measured outputs (On my TexasAce LumenTube) were generally pretty close to what was claimed by Wurkkos for the TS12.The exception was Turbo at the standard FL1 reading of 30 seconds was 844 lumens instead of the 1050 lumens claimed. I saw 1050 lumens but only on the very initial startup output. 

 

Heat & Runtime

Turbo stepdown on the TS12 is pretty significant and occurs pretty quickly. It goes from a peak near 1050 lumens to around 300 lumens in 90 seconds. I do wish it could sustain more lumens for longer. Peak heat was around the 15-minute mark at 46C which is warm but won’t burn you. Around the 35-minute mark on out to an hour, the light began to sea saw in output, too slowly to see with the eye but enough to see in the graph before running on low. While the light stayed on (but in a very low output) for another 90 minutes, when starting in turbo the effective useful runtime is about an hour. Starting in High, you got a lot of more of this sea saw output much sooner and a little bump in effective runtime. In medium, it did about 3:20:00 of total runtime and no sea saw output. 

 

Recharging

A couple of notes on charging with the TS12. I found the USB-C port to be a bit narrow, the ID of a USB-C port is 8.1mm wide while the width of the surrounding aluminum for this recessed port is only 11mm so you can’t use a particularly wide cable or an adapter to get there in my experience. The included battery rated at 900mAh and I tested it at 881mAh on my Vapcell S4 Plus charger. This isn’t a light where a high drain battery is required. Charging itself was without issue, and it charged fine with PD charging. I record the light charging in exactly 90 minutes at a maximum charge rate of 0.84A. Full the battery measured at 4.12v which is a little low. LVP kicked in at 2.980v.

 

Conclusion

Pocket throwers have a more limited niche use in a lot of situations. It’s made it hard to justify on price sometimes, but the Wurkkos TS12 delivers a solid mini thrower, with solid performance for a budget price. It’s an easy light to recommend in the pocket thrower class without a lot of strong negatives.

 

Get your own Wurkkos TS12 for a discount at https://wurkkos.com/products/wurkkos-ts12-mini-edc-flashlight,-1050lm-432meters-powerful-rechargeable-light-with-bezel?DIST=REJCFVQ%3D&VariantsId=11017

 

Acebeam E75 Review (Best Flashlight of 2023 so far!)

Subscribers to the channel may have noticed I have been slowing down in reviews a bit, and part of that’s being really selective in what I review. When I saw the Acebeam E75 announced, I knew I wanted to review it, well and let’s just say, I’m not disappointed. The size, LED’s (Nichia 519A available) and UI make this a win in my book, maybe the best of the year so far. Thanks to Acebeam for sending this to me to review, any sales or discounts that are available will be in the description below. 

 

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Packaging & Accessories

I will quickly go over the packaging and accessories that came with my light and then get to what you really want to know. It’s a nice full-color black box with the outline of the light on the front. The side gives a few highlights and the specs of your model, and the back more detailed stats. My light came with 2 spare orings, a charging cover, a generic lanyard, USB-A to C charging cable, and an Acebeam branded 5000mAh protected 15A 21700 li-ion battery, and the standard paperwork. 

 

Construction & Design

The light is currently being offered in aluminum, anodized in 4 colors, Black, Gray, Blue and Dark Green, and I have the dark green model here. Interestingly the photos on Acebeam’s website don’t show a blue model, but 2 shades of green instead, a grass green which is what I have and a teal green seems to be what they are calling blue. 

The light itself has a flat tail, with a very strong magnet and easily holds itself horizontally on painted slick surfaces. The tail cap has nice functional straight knurling. Internally there are springs on both ends and threads on the tail are square-cut. 

The body tube and head are integral and made of one piece of aluminum. The tube has spiral unidirectional knurling. It’s fairly smooth and could be a little more aggressive in my opinion. 4 large flats are milled in to break it up. 

The e-switch has a black aluminum cover, with a clear plastic ring surrounding it. Underneath there are the 4 LED power level indicators. These are multi-color but all behave the same. They are green when the power is greater than 20% remaining, turn red under 20% and blink red when under 10% remaining. One interesting thing to note is the 4 green power level LED’s around the button are always illuminated. This isn’t a big deal during most operations but is less than ideal when in moonlight mode. I have been told there is a revision where the LED indicator brightness will be less. 

The charging port is opposite the button and has a good-fitting silicone cover. I’ll talk more about it and the pocket clip more in their respective sections. 

The front bezel has moderate crenulations that are reasonably sharp. Mine is glued in place and I would guess made of steel. The lens is glass and AR coated, below it is the quad optic and in my case the 4 Nichia 519a LED’s. 

 

UI

The UI here is what I’ll call the standard flashlight UI. It’s one many other manufacturers use and is logical. From off, long press on the button to turn into firefly mode. A short click from firefly will shut it off, and a longer click from Firefly will turn it to low. When already on in the standard modes the longer click will allow it to cycle up through low, med1, med2, and high. Turbo is a double click and strobe is a triple click. Both Turbo and Strobe shortcuts work when the light is off too. To turn off from any mode it’s a simple short click. There is memory on the normal modes, and lockout that can be activated when the light is off by holding the button for 3 seconds, and the unlock is the same procedure. 

 

Retention

The lanyard attachment point on the E75 is on the tail cap, similar to a lot of other lights. It’s sufficient but nothing special. Let’s talk about the clip on this one though. It’s a little different design than I have seen on most other lights. It’s screwed on just under the charging port and runs most of the length of the body. It’s a dual-direction clip but neither is what I would say is great in my opinion. Both directions leave about 1” to 1.75” sticking out of your pocket both of which are more than I would like. With the diameter of this light and clip configuration for me, it’s not going to be an EDC in my front pocket. In a back pocket, it’s ok. There is no included holster which I would like for this size of the light, and something some of the competitor lights includes. 

 

Size & Weight

I measured the length of the e75 at 5.1”, the diameter of the head at 1.38”, and the diameter of the body at 1.04” on the flats. Weight with clip and battery 7.64oz, or 216.7g. Slightly heavier than the Olight Seeker 3 Pro at 7oz or 198.9g. 

 

Here are a few size comparisons with similar lights that I own. 

 

LED & Beam

The Acebeam E75 is available with 2 LED options, a cool white 6500k option that’s not specified officially producing a peak of 4500k, and a neutral white Nichia 519a option which is what I have here. On my Opple meter, I measured the Nichia 519a LED’s at 4701k tint and at a 98Ra (CRI). Both are excellent and my personal preference, there was nothing negative to measure with the DUV here either. PWM was not to be found here as it’s a constant current driver.

 

The beam shape coming out of the quad LED’s isn’t perfect. On my Nichia version, there is some flower petal effects going on, at about 5ft or further though these are very minimal and not something thats a big deal. What you do notice is that the spill isn’t round, but the center is fairly round. I would put this as more of a floody light than thrower, but not pure flood. 

 

Outputs

Here is an output chat, and it’s nice Acebeam includes measurements for both LED’s not something all manufacturers do these days. Moonlight through High I saw numbers that were reasonably close to the claimed numbers at the 30-second mark (FL1 standard). Turbo on my homemade TexasAce lumen tube read low, and this is a trend i’m seeing above 3000 lumens. It’s something I’m going to have to investigate further. 

 

Heat & Runtime

Runtimes came in at what was expected for the most part. You can see that turbo starts stepping down at the 1-minute mark over the next minute before being at the 1000-lumen mark. Heat peaks at the end of the first step down out at the 1:33:00 mark at 54C .Starting in turbo and running to exhaustion ends at 4:10:00 which is pretty solid. You get 93 minutes of runtime on high of around 1000 lumens. Skipping turbo and going straight to high doesn’t yield much more only about 7 more minutes in high and 18 more minutes in overall runtime. Medium 2 lasted a total of nearly 7 hours runtime. The lack of a rubber grip here does make it a little toasty if you heat peak temps but it’s only after running for 90 minutes continuously, assuming you are not spamming turbo.

 

Recharging

The E75 uses onboard USB-C recharging and I had no issues with any of the cables or charges I used. PD support was good. The included cell is a 15A cell model number IMR21700NP-500A, is a button top, long, and protected. I measured it at 75.29mm, and my longer battery from my brass E70 worked fine which is even longer. Most button-top cells should be fine here, but not the ones with dual pole contacts on one end. 

Charging time in my test took 3:10:00 from LVP at 3.009v to full at 4.134v. During this time charging speed hit a maximum of 2A with a pretty substantial ramp down beginning at the 2 hour mark. One note on the termination voltage. The 4.134v is when the lights voltage indicators went from red flashing to green solid. If you leave it plugged in it will trickle charge a bit closer to 4.2v. 

 

Conclusion

My conclusion on the Acebeam e75 is that it’s my favorite light of 2023 that I have tested so far. For me the combination of the slightly warm, neutral, high CRI Nichia 519a LED’s, solid beam pattern, and 21700 battery provides a long runtime, and it’s available in green, one of my favorite colors. It’s got an easy UI too without any negatives, and no proxy sensor. This is a form factor I like too, and it’s a step up over the Olight Seeker 3 Pro which has the cool white LED, proxy sensor, and a UI I’m not hugely fond of. 

 

The clip on the E75 isn’t my favorite, and it’s not going to be a front-pocket EDC for that reason. It also doesn’t come with a holster which is unfortunate, but it does fit in the Olight Seeker 3 holsters. You could also argue it’s price might be a little high if you’re comparing it to something like the D4V2 which is a similar size and performance but if you’re comparing it to the Olight Seeker 3 Pro or Seeker 4 it’s in line with the competition. 

 

For me the pro’s outweigh the cons, and this ticks a lot of boxes for me for a general-purpose flashlight especially if you value high CRI, warm/neutral emitters like I do. It’s eays for me to recommend the E75. 

Acebeam H16 Review – (Nichia 519a, 650 lumens, Dual Fuel)

Today I am taking a look at the newest right angle headlamp from Acebeam with the H16. It’s a single emitter light with 2 available LED options, in the AA/14500 size format. The H16 shares a lot of design and functions with the similarly sized Pokelite AA that I have reviewed last year. Thanks to Acebeam for sending this one to me to look at and review. Any discounts or deals that I have for this light will be posted in the description below this video along with links to my social media pages. 

 

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See the H16 on Acebeam’s website https://www.acebeam.com/h16

 

Packaging & Accessories

The packaging is a white retail box with color photos and highlights of the light on the front, there are no technical specs on the back like you commonly see, just contact info for Acebeam. The light and accessories sit inside a plastic tray inside and it comes with the light itself, and Acebeam branded 900mAh 14500 battery with USB-C charging on board, a short USB-A to C charging cable, the headband, 2 extra orings, and user manual. 

 

Construction & Design

The light is made from aluminum and hard anodized in either a black or gray color. The black which I have here is the high CRI option and it’s only available in black. The gray body color is exclusive to the cool white emitter too. The design characteristics are pretty similar with the Pokelit AA model with a few differences. 

The tail cap is flat and has a strong magnet that easily holds up the light. It features nice knurling for grip for easy battery removal. The body tube has ribs in the center and places for the clip to mount at the front or rear. The body tube itself is glued to the head of the light.

The head has some fins cut opposite the emitter for heat dissipation. The electronic switch is sitting at the top of the head and is covered by a shallow rubber/silicon boot that’s smooth. The business end of the light has a shallow bezel, glass lens, and smooth reflector. Markings on the light are pretty minimal, with the CCT and CRI being marked on the side of the head, the brand and model being marked just under the bezel, and the export and battery marks on the bottom of the cap.

 

User Interface

The UI here is very simple with the electronic switch found on top of the head. With the 14500 battery, you have 3 modes without memory mode. Click and hold to come on in the lowest mode or double press from off to turn on in low.. Once on click and hold to go up in mode groups. Double click to turbo when on and triple click to a slow strobe. Single short click to turn off. It’s a very simple user interface that I think anyone can understand. Mechanical lockout is easy to trigger by just breaking the seal on the tail cap.

 

Retention

The Clip is an uncaptured dual-direction pocket clip that can mount two ways on the H16. You can mount it near the rear of the light to give you a very deep carry, since the clip actually goes past the end of the light. The downside of this is the button will be inside the pocket and in my opinion easier to accidentally trigger, although it does still require a long press to turn on and comes on in low. The other place it mounts is hear the head but a fair amount of the light will stick out when doing this.

The H16 comes with an orange elastic 2 strap headband. It has a nice comfortable silicone mount, but requires the clip to be removed before mounting. On the sides you do have some reflective markings and Acebeam branding, holes in the material for style and ventilation, and then on the inside you have silicone grip strips to help it keep in place on a helmet. I found it to be lightweight and comfortable to wear.

 

LED & Beam

The H16 I have here is using a Nichia 519A LED in neutral white. I measured this LED at 4912k and 97.9Ra on my Opple light meter, without any color casts in the DUV data. The beam here is fairly floody with a large well defined hotspot and not a ton of spill. Good for the application here, as it’s optimized for closer-up use. There is some PWM that I could measure on my meter when on High but it’s very fast and I can’t see it with my eyes. 

 

Output

Since this light is dual fuel and will run on both a Liion or NiMH battery, I will give some output data for both. One thing to note here is that light is available with a different LED that is brighter if you wish but you do give up the neutral tint and high CRI. All measurements were taken at the 30-second mark according to FL1 Standards. In general on the Li-ion battery that I measured on my Texas Ace Lumen tube was lower than Acebeam’s claims. If I had to guess they are listing startup lumens, not FL1 standards. For my Alkaline/NIMH tests, I used an Amazon Basics high-capacity AA battery. Acebeam doesn’t give official outputs for the use of this light with Alkaline or NiMH, and I think thats due to the extremely low outputs in the first 3 modes. The only one I got to give me a solid reading was medium at about 2 lumens. The light is only really useful on Turbo and that steps down pretty quickly which I will get to in the Runtime section coming up soon. My advice would be to stick with the Li-ion battery the light comes with and really only use a AA or NiMH in an emergency situation. 

 

Heat & Runtimes

I focused primarily on the heat and runtime on the H16 when using the included Li-ion 14500 battery since that’s really where the light is best. Turbo lasts for 2 minutes to complete the total stepdown to about 180 lumens while staying above 500 lumens for the first 55 seconds. From here it’s a pretty steady decline and looks to be somewhat unregulated. Peak heat was at 18 minutes at about 48C on the exterior of the light. High output is an almost identical runtime, with the only difference being a few more total minutes of runtime. 

The NiMH on turbo mode the H16 has a pretty minimal output time of less than a minute before stepping down to about 35 lumens. It will run at this state for about 9:10:00, and then continue to run past 24 hours at sub-lumen outputs. This really isn’t very effective light in most situations though. 

 

Recharging

While the H16t itself doesn’t have built-in charging, the optional Acebeam 14500 battery does have built-in charging via USB-C. I had no issues charging this via USB-C to C or PD. Charging here is at 0.5C about .45A at the maximum for most of the charging time. The overall charging time is 2:30:00 at which time the LED on the battery itself goes from red to green. The battery itself has LVP built into it. I measured LVP at 3.103v and full at 4.174v on the Liion. The NiMH measured 1.23v when the light shut off. 

 

Conclusion

The Acebeam H16 Fishing Headlamp is a decent light if you’re looking for small form factor, neutral white and high CRI. Just be aware that it doesn’t have the most output nor can it sustain those larger numbers for that long. I don’t think this is an issue as long as your use case is up close needs. I would recommend the headlamp for more specialized applications where light weight and size is of high importance. I wouldn’t recommend this headlamp if you plan to run it with a AA or NiMH batter. It’s performance and output runtime is really optimized for Li-Ion batteries. I would only use AA or NiMH in times of emergency. Keep in mind this does come in a different LED model where you can get up to 1000 lumens on turbo too if you’re needing a bit more output. 

Thrunite Catapult Mini V2 Review (1100 Lumens, 515 Meters of throw, 18350)

Today I’m taking a look at the new Thrunite Catapult Mini V2. Now if you have watched my channel for a while you will know I really liked the original Catapult Mini and it’s probably my go to small thrower flashlight so I was excited when Thrunite said they had an updated model coming out. It’s using an SFT40 LED that’s brighter than the original light and a different optic setup, so lets see if it’s an improvement or not. Thanks to Thrunite for sending this to me to look at and review.

 

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Get the Thrunite Catapult Mini V2 at Amazon with the links below.

Desert Tan https://amzn.to/3oD2ee6 use code LXDG4Y7L to save 15%

Black https://amzn.to/3N1xbln Click the coupon on the page to save 15%

 

Packaging & Accessories

Standard Thrunite packaging here, the signature brown cardboard box with just the logo on the front and the line drawing on the side, opposite that is the indicator for the body color and LED tint. Inside the light is nicely protected with black foam. Accessories are the light itself, USB-A to C Charging cable, proprietary 18350 1100mAh battery, and a bag of extra o’rings, button, recharging port, and branded lanyard.

 

Construction & Design

V2 shares some similar design characteristics with V1 in roughly the same shapes but with a little different style. The light is made from 6061 aluminum and is available in two colors currently, a standard black and a Desert Tan that I have here. The V2 is slightly longer by about 4.5mm in length. The V2 to me feels more like most of the recent Thrunite Designs with a lanyard attachment point on the flat tail, allowing the light to tail stand. The grip on the body is a combination of very fine-milled lines, and then 5 milled flats around the side. The head has the standard Thrunite flat metal button with an LED Battery indicator in the middle and a standard USB Port cover opposite that. That head grows in size with a cone and a more traditional flat screw-off bezel that’s not glued in place. The V2 is using a traditional smooth deep reflector where as the V1 used a TIR-style optic and this has a pretty big difference in the beam pattern as we will see later. 

 

Retention

Retention options here are limited, as the light doesn’t have a clip, nor comes with a holster. It does come with a lanyard that attaches to the tail if you wish. The light does tailstand but that’s less useful with a thrower like this in my opinion. I do like the size of the light in my hand, and find it pretty comfortable to use. The tail is nonmagnetic.

 

Size & Weight

I measured the length at 85.81mm, the diameter of the head at 40.4mm, diameter of the body at 26mm. Weight with the battery installed came to 4.06oz. The light is drop rated to 1.5M, and waterproof to 2M (IPX8). Here is a photo comparing it to the Catapult Mini V1 and the Lumintop GT Nano all small form factor throwers. 

 

LED & Beam

The Catapult Mini V2 is using a SFT40 LED that I measured on my Opple meter at 5835k and 65 CRI, so more on the cool white spectrum and low CRI. DUV had no undesirable tints to it. This LED is combined with a traditional smooth reflector where as the V1 used a unique TIR style optic. The result is the beam patterns are quite different. Where the V1 was all throw, and basically no spill, the V2 has a very bright hot center (with a bit of a donut at closer ranges), and a bit of spill. This makes the V2 somewhat better as more of a general-purpose light rather than only a thrower. 

 

V2

 

V1

 

Outputs

Outputs here on the Catapult Mini V2 were generally higher then claimed when measured on my TexasAce lumen tube at the 30 second mark. This isn’t something I mind at all, a nice little benefit.

One other thing to note here on outputs is the candela rating or throw, the V1 was rated at 89,600 candela and 598 meters of throw. The V2 is rated at 66,150 candela and 515 meters of throw, so slightly less throw than the outgoing model, but you are giving that up for a bit more spill to make the light a little more useful as well as a brighter output in all modes.

 

Heat & Runtime

I will let the graphs do the majority of the talking here on this section. Turbo runtime lasts 90 seconds in my testing, stepping down to 400 lumens. This corresponds to the thermals that I measured on the outside of the light at 34C. It was able to run at this level for 1:20:00, with peak heat increasing to about 39C on the outside of the light. Skipping turbo and just going with high nets you another 6 minutes of total runtime, and running on just medium gives you 3:30:00 of total runtime.

 

User Interface

The Catapult Mini V2 is using Thrunight’s standard UI that they use with basically all of their lights. It has 3 modes during normal operations and shortcuts to Firefly and Turbo. To get to Firefly from off, just long press for about 1 second. For Turbo double press in any mode, and for strobe triple press. For the main modes once on just long press to cycle between them. The light does have memory and will remember only the main modes. There are 2 lockout methods with the light, first is electronic lockout which you can do by long pressing the button for 4 seconds when off, and the same to unlock it. The LED will breathe fading in and out when it’s locked out with this method. Or my personal favorite is just to mechanically lock it out by slightly unscrewing the body from the head to break contact. 

 

Recharging & Power

The Catapult Mini V2 comes with a Thrunite branded semi-proprietary 1100mAh 18350 battery. I tested this battery at 1181mAh in my Vapcell S4 Plus charger. What makes the battery proprietary is the plastic ring around the positive contact on the battery and the fact that there is both positive and negative contacts on the positive end. However, the Catapult Mini V2 only uses positive contact meaning a button top 18350 that’s long enough works here too.

Using the onboard USB-C charging port I was able to charge the light from LVP at 2.903V to full at 4.191V in 3 hours 3 minutes. Now this is a pretty slow charging speed of about 0.5A and only about 1/2C. So it’s super conservative given the battery capacity. I had no issues here charging with a USB-C PD charger either. 

 

Conclusion

I think it’s debatable if the Catapult Mini V2 is really an upgrade here, while it is brighter, and the beam is more useful as a general-purpose flashlight, it’s slightly not as good as the original at being a thrower, which was what is so impressive about the original. That said the V2 is more useful daily because of the spill and the throw is nearly as far. The SFT40 has a slightly cool white tint with no negative tints which is nice to see. 

 

I do like the design of the V2 light slightly better with the improved grip and lanyard attachment points. The rest is pretty similar and unchanged. While I am a little disappointed a proprietary battery shipped with the light, i’m glad it’s not required to function and that normal small button, button top works here or a standard battery with a magnet if needed.

I can definitely recommend picking up a Catapult mini, now which version I think comes down to how you plan to use it, and the V2 for me probably gets the slight edge over V1 just because it is more useful in more scenarios with the increase in spill. That said let me know what you guys think is the better light to go with and why in the comments below. If I have any discounts those will be in the description of the video along with links to my socials. 

 

Get the Thrunite Catapult Mini V2 at Amazon with the links below.

Desert Tan https://amzn.to/3oD2ee6 use code LXDG4Y7L to save 15%

Black https://amzn.to/3N1xbln Click the coupon on the page to save 15%

Wuben X3 Review (Wireless Charing, LH351D, GITD)

The Wuben X3 Lightok is the latest new product from Wuben, it’s the 3rd and smallest in the X series of side by side lights from Wuben, but this one brings quite a few different features we have not seen on the others. First is the rotating head to convert from straight on to 90 degrees, both red and white LED’s, and LCD Display, Wireless charging, and a charging case. There is lots to go into detail on this one to explain everything.

Wuben did send this to me to promote the X3’s launch on Kickstarter which is live now. Links will be in the description below to where you can learn more. Supporting the Kickstarter will help support my channel here too. All that said these are my unbias views and opinions on the light and not influenced by Wuben’s decision to send me the X3 in advance of the campaign. 

Back the Wuben X3 on Kickstarter at https://bit.ly/LR-X3

 

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Packaging & Accessories

With my preproduction sample, I didn’t receive the final packaging or accessories. Mine came with the charging case, the flashlight itself with the clip preinstalled, and Wuben’s combination lanyard and USB-C charging cable that’s nifty. The manual I received is the first revision and a bit rough on the translation in some places, word choice is odd, and there are some phrasing head-scratchers. I do expect this to be fixed in the final version.

 

Construction & Design

Lots of things to talk about on the X3. First, let’s start with the light itself. The head module is made of aluminum and anodized in black in my example. The body in my example is made from hard plastic, which is semi-transparent and glows in the dark. Wuben has said there will be 4 different colors offered, black, white, camouflage green, and a gradient ramp blue similar to what they have done on other X series lights. It unclear if that will be just the head or body color differences and if there may be different materials chosen for the body. The campaign will have pictures to explain that for sure.

The head features two LEDs (White on the left, Red on the right), both LEDs sit behind TIR optics, and a single-piece plastic lens held in place with an aluminum bezel. On the top, you have a small LCD screen on the left, and the UI button on the right which has a nice milled circular texture on it. The head itself rotates clockwise when converting from a right-angle light to a straight-on one. There are only detents at the beginning and end. 

The body of the light in my example is made of semi-transparent glow-in-the-dark plastic. On the front, you can see the coil that allows it to charge wirelessly. On the back you have a spring steel clip that’s attached to the light that I will talk more about later and at the bottom there are 2 magnets that hold the light up well. The sides are smooth with some angular relief cuts that seem to fit my hand reasonably well. The light can head or tail stand without issue, it’s a rectangle.

The next piece is the recharging case. This is made of soft-touch plastic that seems to show most marks and fingerprints pretty easily. There is a clear diffused piece of plastic that is hinged and when in the up position the light slides in to charge or for storage. This diffuser combined with the rotating head allows the light to act like a lantern if you want it to. It’s a nice bonus for what is otherwise the charging case. The front of the case contains a little rubber door that covers the USB-C charging port for the internal battery in the case, and the button to control the case.

 

User Interface

The user interface of the light is reasonably simple, especially the small LCD Screen next to the button. From off a quick press puts your into the main white LED modes, starting with the mode used last (excluding turbo) so it does have memory. Once on long pressing the button allows you to change the 3 main white modes. Double pressing goes to Turbo. Triple pressing at any time takes you to white SOS. 

The light also has a red LED thats pretty easy to activate. From Off, long press to go to red, this also has memory mode and strobe inside its 3 mode options, which I’m not a huge fan of myself. Similarly long pressing once already on in red, allows you to change to the other two red modes. Once the light is completely off, the light will go back to white with just a quick press. One interesting note is that you can use the case to make either the red or the white light a lantern. 

 

Retention

The retention option on the light itself is the spring steel clip that’s screwed onto the back of the light. It’s made of pretty sturdy steel and is quite stiff. I would say too stiff as it took two hands to put it onto some overalls or the pocket of some jeans. It’s attached so that it’s a heads up carry. Not great for putting in your pocket to conceal in an EDC manner, but makes sense to use it more as a right angle light. 

The case has a slot in the back for attaching the included dual-purpose lanyard and charging cable. It’s a pretty neat design with a cable holder for lack of a better word captures the USB-C ends and the cable portion is more of a ribbon material with a handy metric ruler on it.

 

Size & Weight

I measured the length of the light at 70.35mm, the width at 35.05mm and the depth at 19.77mm. The weight of just the light with the clip is 62.7g or 2.21oz. With the case but without the lanyard it comes to 5.87oz or 166.4g. The size of the case is 85.4mm x 47mm x 39.7mm. The light is IPX 65 water-rated and drop resistant for 1 meter. No water or drop rating is given for the case. Here are a few photos of the X3 next to it’s other X series lights and my Wurkkos FC11 reference light.

 

LED & Beam

The Wuben X3 is using the Samsung LH351D emitter in a neutral 5000k tint. On my Opple meter, I measured 4895k at 94.5Ra (CRI), so not only is it neutral but it’s high CRI as well. The DUV was very neutral with no color tinges like you sometimes get with the LH351D’s. For me personally, this is a nice choice of emitter and tint.No specific LED was mentioned for the red LED’s here. There is PWM found here but it’s quick.

The beam pattern is a fuzzy tight hotspot with a minimal amount of spill, I think the fuzzyness is due to the TIR reflector that’s being used here and I don’t really notice it until you are showing the light on a flat uniform surface like a wall or ceiling.

 

Outputs

A note on outputs, that things in general underperformed Wuben’s initial claims. With Turbo lasting less than 30 seconds in my multiple tests, if I followed the FL1 standard of taking a reading after 30 seconds, the claims here should be more like 175 lumens instead of the 700 claimed or the 515 lumens measured at initial power on. The rest of the modes were within a reasonable margin of error for me, and red actually was more than claimed.

 

Heat & Runtimes

For my heat and runtimes, I took measurements with my TexasAce Lumentube. Starting in Turbo the light stepped down very quickly right at 30 seconds, this is disappointing along with the output numbers being less than claimed on my preproduction model. This isn’t heat related as the heat barely changed during this time. Max heat was 63C at the 18-minute mark. There isn’t a ton of room to dissipate heat here with the smaller aluminum head. The light was able to sustain between 100-180 lumens then for 90 minutes, in High outputs were slightly lower and runtimes were only 2-3 minutes longer. In Medium the light ran for about 4:30:00 at a very stable 75 lumens or so. 

 

Recharging

Recharging of the X3 flashlight itself can only be done wirelessly. Luckily it seems to use the Qi charging standard so not only can you use the case the light comes with but many other charging pads seem to work in my experience. I have a 5W Samsung charging pad here that I used, and doing that the light took just shy of 2 hours to charge.

Internally the light itself has a lithium polymer battery thats 1000mAh in size. Charging this via the case took about 2:46:00. I measured this by using the case with a full charge, plugging in the light and then plugging in the case to AC power, so in theory the power being consumed was for charging the light. This is a fairly slow charging speed for a small battery, but we need to keep in mind wireless charging isn’t super efficient, just convenient. 

The case also contains it’s own 3000mAh battery. In my testing, I found that I could charge the X3 from LVP to full about 1.7 times before it’s internal capacity was full. I tested charging just the internal battery in the case from zero to full and that took 2.5 hours. The case did seem to always draw a small amount of power when it indicated it was full regardless of how many hours you left it in. 

 

Conclusion

When I first read about the X3 I thought it was a little bit of a gimmick, but once I got it in my hand and started using it, it grew on me quickly. It’s a useful feature set for what it is. I like the dual emitter colors, especially in this side-by-side format, it works well. The rotating head here works really well, so not only is it a light you can clip onto a vest or pack strap, but you can use it more like a conventional flashlight too. It’s a good LED and tint option in my opinion here too being neutral and high CRI.

The LED screen here is functional by telling you the mode, number of lumens and power level indicator. The only thing I wish it did was estimate the remaining runtime at this power mode. That’s something NItecore has been doing on their lights with screens that are useful rather than a graphic showing the battery level that isn’t very precise.

The glow-in-the-dark body in this example and the internal LED that comes on when it’s charging creates a neat glowing effect. The magnets in the bottom are strong and functional too. The wireless charging works well but is kind of slow. At first, I was against the idea but found it rather convenient that you could charge in the case or in most places I could charge my smartphone. I could even do wireless powersharing from my smartphone if I wanted. I can’t think of really any other flashlights I have used that charge via Qi. 

This isn’t something I will probably EDC In my front jeans pocket like I do smaller round lights due to it’s size and harder angles, and not being deep carry at all. For me, it’s probably more of a back pocket or elsewhere in my bag type of light. I have been finding it something I grab when I need to go look at something in the basement or at night quickly because I like how it feels in my hand. I’m a little disappointed that the output here for me isn’t what’s claimed, and it’s off by a decent margin. Not sure why there is such a large difference but I know other reviewers have had similar experiences. Wuben either needs to address this or adjust its claims to match outputs that are closer to reality. Overall a fun light I can recommend, especially if you have some of the other X series of lights and like them, just be aware turbo output may be underwhelming.. I will have links below in the description to where you can find the Kickstarter on this one or if your watching after the Kickstarter is over where you can pick up the light now.

Back the Wuben X3 on Kickstarter at https://bit.ly/LR-X3

Wurkkos FC13 Review (2000 Lumens, $32, Anduril 2, USB-C)

Today I am taking a quick look at the Wurkkos FC13 a 18650 light running an SFT40 LED and Anduril 2 firmware. It features a colored bezel and RGB button on the side as well as onboard USB-C charging. Thanks to Wurkkos for sending this to me to look at and review.

 

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Get the Wurkkos FC13 at Amazon at https://amzn.to/3zloXwQ

Use code 6ZXGKK9W to save 20% off either the SFT40 or XHP50 version. Valid until April 10 2023

 

Packaging & Accessories

Much like Sofirn, Wurkkos has recently gone through a packaging quality upgrade. Now you have a nice white magnetic fold-out box with a full-color photo of the light on the front, a description and spec chart on the back and the specs of the exact model you ordered on the end cap.  Inside you have an Olight-style yellow card with first-time startup instructions telling you to remove the insulator inside the battery compartment. 

Accessories that are included are the light itself, a 3000mAh button top 18650 (Standard), USB-A to C charging cable, Pocket clip, Lanyard, bag of extra orings, and a manual. 

 

Construction

A few notes on construction, the light is made from aluminum and hard anodized in black. At the current time that’s the only color that’s being offered. The light comes into 3 pieces, the tail is flat and nonmagnetic. The tail cap has minimal milling, the clip is designed to attach at one point, and the body tube has some milling for style and weight reduction over anything else. Threads are anodized, square cut and nicely greased. 

The head features a large relief cut for the silicone button that stands slightly proud. The button is smooth in texture and has areas where it’s thinner to allow the LED underneath to shine through and display it’s many colors. The USB port cover stays out of the way. The bezel is flat, and there is an orange aluminum accent piece holding the glass lens and a heavy orange peel reflector in place. 

 

UI

The light is running Anduril 2 which I won’t go into depth about as I have covered it in the past and it’s pretty complicated. If you don’t know the firmware you will want the diagram to help you learn. It does have ramping UI by default or you can switch it into a 7 step stepped UI. 

The only thing I can say is I have had quite a bit of difficulty getting the standby LED color to change, but I can replicate what that should look like by locking out the light and showing you what that looks like. 

For more info and the firmware diagram check out https://ivanthinking.net/thoughts/anduril2-manual/

 

Retention

The pocket clip appears to be nearly the same model as what was on the TS21, with the only difference being mainly where the hole is for a lanyard attachment. On the FC13, I would call this a good clip, it’s fairly deep carry, dual direction and didn’t hang up on my jeans pocket in any way. I do recommend you use mechanical lockout though so there are no accidents. You can attach a lanyard on the flat nonmagnetic tail cap or on the clip itself. 

 

Size & Weight

I measured the length at 114mm, the minimum diameter on the body at 22mm, and the maximum diameter at the head at 27mm. Weight with the clip and battery came in at 121.9g or 4.3oz. When I compare it to a few other Wurkkos lights I have the FC13 is right in the middle length-wise between the TS21, and the FC11. The head is more on the size of the TS21 though. 

 

LED & Beam

The FC13 is available with Two LED currently, a Cree XHP50.2 at 5000k and a SFT40 at 6000k which is what I have. On my Opple meter I measured the tint on a medium output power at 5783k, and 66CRI. Tint was just ever so slightly green very hard to notice in my eyes. There is PWM here as it’s an Anduril 2 light. The beam here is a small hotspot with minimal spill. This is what we would expect from the flat-top SFT40 LED in my example.

I measured the parasitic drain when the LED is on in high mode at 5.50mA, (Milliamps) and on low the button pulled 156uA (microAmps) and with the button off 46.2uA (Microamps). So as cool as the RGB button LED is, on it’s brightest mode it will drain the light in less than a month, so I would recommend turning it to low or off (or mechanical lockout by unscrewing the head or tail a ¼ turn). 

 

Outputs

Since the light runs Anduril 2, you don’t have normal stepped modes like most other lights have, instead you have ramping and 7 different stepped modes plus Turbo, so for output testing, I only tested a few. For the SFT40 version of the light which I have on my Texas Ace Lumen tube, I came up with 1640 Lumens on Turbo and 640 on what I will call high. On it’s lowest output it’s sub lumen.

 

Heat & Runtime

Turbo on my light ran for about 3 minutes before stabilizing with a few steps to get there from the nearly 1800 peak starting lumens. During this time heat peaked at about 46C on an uncalibrated light at the 90 second mark. With the longer runtime graph you can see as heat dissipates the light does increase in brightness too. Total effective runtime is around 3 hours. With a runtime comparison of Turbo with lower modes we can see running at about half power gives far greater runtime lengths out to 13 hours or so. 

 

Recharging

The light features onboard USB-C recharging. I found the port to be recessed a little deeper and access to be slightly tighter than average. The result was the light was pickier about the cable being used to charge it. Charging from LVP at 2.834v to Full at 4.150v came in at 2:11:00 with max charging speed being 1.2A. It’s a very flat charging curve that tapers down at the end. The LED in default mode starts orange and blinks when charging and goes solid when charged but remains orange. You can use the light when it’s charging, but you will only be able to use it in it’s lower modes.

The light also works as a powerbank for your USB-C Devices. I didn’t test any runtimes on this other than to verify it worked with my Samsung S22 Ultra smartphone. 

 

Conclusion

I wouldn’t call the Wurkkos FC13 a successor to the well respected and often recommended FC11 for a few reasons. While the price is very favorable, and the performance is good, the Anduril 2 UI isn’t as easy to use for a lot of people as the FC11’s more standard UI. What I would say the FC13 is, is a good choice for enthusiasts who want Anduril 2, and more throw than the FC11 has in situations where a high CRI isn’t important. The RGB LED in the button is fun, despite being a bit difficult to change in my example. Overall a good light for the right application, but maybe not quite a universal across the board recommendation like the FC11.

Get the Wurkkos FC13 at Amazon at https://amzn.to/3zloXwQ

Use code 6ZXGKK9W to save 20% off either the SFT40 or XHP50 version. Valid until April 10 2023